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Chapter22
Women’s Jackets and Coats
JACKET AND COAT FOUNDATIONS
Two Jacket Foundations
Jacket and Coat Terms .
Inner Support—Terms and Definitions .
Basic Jacket and Coat Foundations .
THE JACKET AND COAT SLEEVES .
Cap Ease .
Grading the Jacket/Coat Sleeves .
Tailored Two-Piece Sleeve .
COLLAR/LAPEL DESIGNS .
Basic Notch Collar/Lapel .
Low-Notch Lapel .
Potrait Collar and Lapel .
DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET .
DESIGN VARIATIONS .
SHAWL FOUNDATION .
Shawl Collar Variations .
Wide Shawl Collars .
Shawl Collar with Separated UndercollarandFacing .
STYLE JACKET .
ONE-PIECE JACKET/COAT FOUNDATIONS .
Collar and Lapel Styles for the Tailored Jacket .
Transferring Dart to Neckline .
Tailored Collar . .
The Wrap-Around Style .
THE THREE PANEL STYLE .
EVALUATING THE FIT OF THE JACKET .
Chapter 23
Men’s Wear
INTRODUCTION TO MEN’S WEAR .
Draft Projects for Men’s Wear .
Forms and Their Characteristics .
Measuring for a Personal Draft .
Measurement Chart: Form and Personal Fit .
YOUNG MEN’S MEASUREMENT CHART .
MATURE MALE MEASUREMENT CHART .
DRAFTING THE MEN’S JACKET FOUNDATION
Jacket Sleeve Measurement Chart .
Basic Jacket Sleeve Draft .
DESIGNING WITH THE JACKET FOUNDATION .
Collar and Lapel Classic Designs .
Color Codes .
Pattern Information .
JACKET CONSTRUCTION . .
Preparing Fabric .
Estimating Yardage .
Supplies Needed .
Applying Interfacing
Assembling the Jacket
FITTING ANALYSIS AND CORRECTIONS .
THE SHIRT FOUNDATION .
Shirt Sleeve Measurements
Placket Design .
THE CASUAL SHIRT
THE VEST
BASIC PANT FOUNDATION FOR TROUSER .
Trouser Draft .
SLACK FOUNDATION .
Slack Draft .
JEAN FOUNDATION .
SPECIAL INFORMATION FOR ALL PANTS
Pant Welt Pocket—Practice Welt
Chapter 24
Capes and Hoods
CAPES
A-Line Cape Foundation
Flared Cape Foundation .
HOODS .
How to Measure for the Hood Draft .
Contoured Hood Foundation
Contoured Hood Design .
Loose Hood Foundation .
Chapter25
Knock-Off Copying Ready-MadeDesigns
INTRODUCTION
KNOCK-OFF METHODS
T-TOPS
SHIRT TYPES
PANT TYPES
JACKET COPY
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