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Chapter 9

Contouring(Principle #3)

CONTOURING:

PRINCIPLE #3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159

Contour Designs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159

Figure versus Basic Garment . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160

Fitting Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160

THE CONTOUR GUIDE PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161

Preparing the Contour Guide Patterns . . . . . .161

Measure the Depth of the Hollow Areas and Chart the Patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162

Guideline 1—Cutout Necklines . . . . . . . . . . . .162

Guideline 2—Cutout Armholes . . . . . . . . . . . .162

Guideline 3—Armhole Ease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163

Guideline 4—Empire Styleline . . . . . . . . . . . . .163

Guideline 5—Contour Between the Busts . . .164

Guideline 6—Strapless Designs . . . . . . . . . . . .164

Shoulder Slope and Side Ease . . . . . . . . . . . . .165

Guideline 7—Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .165

How to Use the Contour Guide Patterns . . . .166

THE CLASSIC EMPIRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169

Empire with Shirred Midriff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171

SURPLICE (OR WRAP) DESIGNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .173

Pattern for Left Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174

Pattern for Right Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174

OFF-SHOULDER DESIGNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175

Gathered Shoulder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175

HALTERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .177

V-Neck Halter . . . .

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Chapter 9, 10

Chapter 10

Collars

INTRODUCTION .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179

COLLAR TERMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179

COLLAR STAND AND ROLL TYPES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180

COLLAR CLASSIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180

BASIC SHIRT COLLAR FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . .181

Straight Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181

Undercollar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182

Folded Basic Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183

Collar Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183

Fit Problems of the Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184

PETER PAN COLLARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185

Principle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185

Relationship of the Collar’s Stand,Width,and Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185

Three Basic Peter Pan Collars . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185

Peter Pan with 1-Inch Stand (Full-Roll) . . . . . . .186

Peter Pan with 1/2-Inch Stand (Partial-Roll) . .187

Peter Pan with Flat-Roll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187

SAILOR COLLAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188

Basic Sailor Collar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188

Sailor with Extension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .189

Sailor with Inset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190

COLLARS WITH DEEP,OPEN NECKLINES . . . . . . . . . .191

Collar for V-Neck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191

Collar for Stylized Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .191

MANDARIN COLLAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192

Basic Mandarin—Design 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .192

Mandarin Collar Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193

COLLAR WITH STAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194

WIDE COLLAR AND STAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195

COLLARANDSTANDAWAYFROMTHEBASICNECKLINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196

ALL-IN-ONE COLLAR AND STAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197

ROLL COLLARS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198

Turtle Neck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198

Roll Collar with Cutaway Neck . . . . . . . . . . . .199

COLLAR DESIGN VARIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200

SELF-EVALUATION TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200

Chapter 11

Built-Up Necklines

BUILT-UP NECKLINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202

Stovepipe Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202

Built-Up Bateau Neckline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204

INSET BANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206

Rounded Inset Band . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206

Inset Band Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207

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Chapter11, 12

Chapter12

Cowls

Chapter 13

Skirts/Circles and Cascades

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Chapter 13