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Chapter 14
Sleeves
INTRODUCTION .
Set-in Sleeve . .
Terminology
Elbow Dart Variations .
Shoulder Pads . .
SLEEVE CUFFS .
Basic Shirt Cuff
Self-Faced Cuff .
French Cuff (Used with Cufflinks) .
Contoured Cuff .
Roll-Up Cuff .
CAP SLEEVES
Jutting Cap .
DARTLESS SLEEVE PATTERN .
MODIFYING ARMHOLE TO REDUCE SLEEVE CAP EASE .
Options
PUFF SLEEVES
Fullness at Hem .
Fullness at Cap
Fullness at Hem and Cap .
CIRCULAR HEMLINE SLEEVES .
Half-Circle Sleeves .
Bell Sleeves .
PETAL SLEEVES
Plain Petal—Design 1 .
Gathered Petal—Design 2 .
Flared Petal—Design 3 .
LANTERN SLEEVES .
Long Lantern Sleeve—Design 1 .
Short Lantern Sleeve—Design 2
Kimono,Raglan,Drop Shoulder,and Exaggerated Armholes
INTRODUCTION TO SLEEVE-BODICE COMBINATIONS .
BASIC KIMONO .
Kimono Draft .
Short-Sleeve Kimono .
BASIC DOLMAN .
ONE-PIECE COMBINATIONS .
Kimono with Shoulderline Seam .
Kimono Without Overarm Seam .
KIMONO TORSO FOUNDATION .
KIMONO DRESS .
CAFTAN .
KIMONO WITH GUSSETS
RAGLAN SLEEVE .
One-Piece Raglan .
RAGLAN DESIGN AND VARIATIONS .
Armhole Princess .
Yoke with Flare Sleeve .
Raglan Drop Shoulder .
DROP SHOULDER .
\Drop Shoulder Draft
Drop Shoulder Variations
Designs Based on Raglan Foundation
EXAGGERATED ARMHOLES
Deep-Cut Square Armhole .
SELF-EVALUATION TEST
Chapter 16
Buttons,Buttonholes,and Facings
BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES .
Basic Types of Buttons .
Types of Buttonholes .
Button/Buttonhole Extension .
Button and Buttonhole Placement Guide .
FACINGS .
Stitched Facings
Fold-Back Facings .
Facing Types .
Facings for Cut-Out Necklines and Armholes .
SELF-EVALUATION TEST .
Chapter17
Placketsand Pockets
PLACKETS
Pointed Placket with Facing-in-One .
Wing Collar Placket
Slit Opening with Placket .
POCKETS .
Pocket Classification
Inserted Seam Pocket .
Jean Pocket
Pocket-in-One with the Side Seam .
Accordion Pocket .
Stylized Outside Pocket
Lift-Away Pocket .
Pocket with Hidden Side Seam . . . . . . . . . . . .
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